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Grass Seed FAQs
Everything you need to know about sowing grass seed, repairing your lawn and maintaining it - in one handy place!
How to sow grass seed
Find out how to sow grass seed with our expert guide which will help you get it right first time
Getting Started
How to sow grass seed
- Dig the soil over to a depth of 20-25cm
- Remove weeds by hand or use a weed killer
- Add top soil if you believe the soil to be poor quality or unlevel
- Rake the area to get a level seedbed
- Allow the area to cultivate for 10-14 days; this will encourage any dormant weeds to appear on the surface. Then, remove any newly appearing weeds by hand.
- Sow the seed at our recommended rate of 50g per m2, by using a seed spreader or your head
- Rake the seed in after sowing so that the seed is in amongst the soil
- Firm down by foot or by using a roller to improve to soil contact
- Water the just-sown seed well
How to overseed your existing lawn
- Remove any dead grass, weeds or moss by sacrifying / raking the area
- Rake the area enough so that the soil is lose and not compact
- Allow to settle for 10-14 days to encrouage any dormant weeds to appear
- Remove any newly appearing weeds by hand
- Sow the seed at our recommended rate of 35g per m2, by using a seed spreader or your hand
- Rake the seed in after sowing so that the seed is in amongst the soil
- Firm down by foot or by using a roller to improve seed to soil contact
- Water the just-sown seed well
Do I need to add top soil?
- Our seed does not require top soil to germinate, however if you feel your soil is of poor quality or is unlevel (dips in certain places) then we would recommend that you add top soil to create a fine and level seedbed.
Do I need to add a fertiliser?
Fertiliser isn't a requirement for our grass seed to grow, but it will accelerate / speed up the growth of your grass alongside providing your soil and grass with all the nutrients it needs to remain healthy and green. A lawn that is regularly fed will be more resistant to weeds and disease. When sowing a new lawn from scratch, you should aim to use our QUICK RELEASE: Pre-Seed fertiliser.
Do I need to aerate my lawn?
Aeration while not essential for most lawns is good practice to ensure a well drained, healthy and disease free lawn. You should consider aerating your lawn if it experiences heavy traffic (kids and pets running around your garden all contribute to compaction). You should also consider aerating your lawn if it dries out easily in the summer and becomes very waterlogged in the wetter months - which is typical of clay soils. If you notice a substantial build up of moss over winter, you should try and work regular aeration into your lawn maintenance routine.
What grass seed do I need?
Picking the best grass seed can depend on a couple of things such as; if you have any issues with shade or clay or sandy soils, if you need your lawn to be hardwearing or perhaps you would like an ornamental lawn.
Two of our most popular mixes are our SUPERSTAR: Back Lawn which produces a hard wearing, lush and versatile lawn for general / regular use alongside our FAMILY: Kids and Pets mix which is also hardwearing and lush and designed for family life.
Following this, our STATEMENT: Front Lawn mix creates a very fine ornamental lawn for that bowling green look.
If you have issues with shade we have two mixes that may suit your needs. STEADFAST: Shade is for dappled, non-permanent shade caused by the likes of trees and STEADFAST: Ultra Shade for blocked permanent shade caused by high walls or fences.
For clay soils we have our IMPRESS: Clay Soils Mix and for sandy soils we have our THRIVE: Sandy Soils mix; both are designed to perform excellently in these conditions.
If your soil type is normal, doesn't suffer from shade and you want to cut out the need for regular reseeding - you should try our RESTORE: Self - Repair mix.
If you're still unsure of what mix to go for, you can always contact us.
When can I sow grass seed?
Grass sowing season is generally from March - September. You can confidently sow grass seed when temperatures are 8-10 degrees and above consistently for at least two weeks with no adverse weather conditions forecast. Always consult a two week forecast prior to sowing.
How to measure your lawn
Lawns come in all shapes and sizes, which is wonderful until you have to work out how to measure one that isn’t a conventional shape or size! If you plan to sow a new lawn or overseed an existing one, you must measure your lawn to calculate how much grass seed you’ll need.
Once you’ve calculated your lawn’s measurements, you can use our handy grass seed calculator to work out how much product you’ll need to purchase to ensure an even coverage of grass seed across your lawn. Or, if you’re more of a DIY-er and are wondering, "How can I measure my yard?" keep reading for more advice!
Keep reading for helpful tips and advice for measuring your lawn to ensure you get the perfect amount of grass seed you need!
Mowing and Maintenance
When should I mow my new lawn?
You should aim to mow your newly established lawn when it is 6-8 weeks old and the blades are reaching heights of 5-7cm. Use the highest setting on your mower and remove the clippings.
What height should I mow my grass at?
For lawns that are for general use, the recommended mowing height is 20-40mm. If you try to mow shorter than this, you may hack your lawn (cut too short). Fescues are often found in ornamental / bowling green style lawns, where the recommended mowing height would be 10-20mm. We have recommended mowing heights for all our mixes:
| Grass Seed Mix | Recommended Mowing Height |
| SUPERSTAR: Back Lawn / FAMILY: Kids and Pets | 20 - 40mm |
| IMPRESS: Clay Master | 20 - 40mm |
| THRIVE: Sandy Soils | 20 - 40mm |
| STEADFAST: Shade | 20 - 40mm |
| STEADFAST: Ultra Shade | 20 - 40mm |
| RESTORE: Self-Repair | 20 - 40mm |
| ROBUST: Coastal Sand & Salt | 20 - 40mm |
| STATEMENT: Front Lawn | 10 - 20mm |
What fertiliser should I use?
When sowing a new lawn from scratch, we recommend using our QUICK RELEASE: Pre-Seed fertiliser. You can use fertiliser on a new lawn around the six-week mark.
If you already have an established lawn, you should aim for two slow-release fertiliser applications per year or consider our fast-acting liquid fertiliser to give your lawn a quick and intensive nutrient boost in a matter of days!
When your lawn is established at the six-week mark, or if you have an already established lawn, you should aim for two slow-release fertiliser applications in a year. This means applying SLOW RELEASE: Autumn / Winter from September onwards and SLOW RELEASE: Spring / Summer from April onwards. Both fertilisers work over the course of four months. If you are looking for faster results or have left fertilising late in the season, you can use our quick-release versions of both of these fertilisers.
Our fast-acting Quick Release Liquid Fertilisers are the best option for feeding your lawn nutrients rapidly when it requires a quick boost of nutrients to help it grow, make it greener or strengthen it against the elements.
If your lawn is established, suffering from weeds or moss and is six months + old, you can use our Feed, Weed and Moss Killer.
If you want to keep your lawn healthy but want to use an organic product that can be used for most of the year, we recommend our REVIVE: Organic 365.
How do I apply fertiliser?
• Apply your fertiliser at the recommended rate using your hand when wearing a glove or by using a spreader
• Water it in until the granules dissolve, keeping kids and pets off the lawn during application and until the product is dissolved. Aim to apply on an overcast day avoiding application during hot periods and when rain is due.
How can I control weeds in a newly seeded lawn?
Do not apply a Feed, Weed and Moss Killer product on a lawn that is less than six months old. If weeds have appeared in your newly seeded lawn, here's what you can do:
• These weeds will be shallow rooting, you can pull them out by hand or wait until the 6-8 week mark to mow them out.
• If the weeds are persistent and reoccurring, use a selective herbicide to spot treat them and always read the instructions.
How do you scarify a lawn?
Method 1: Using a spring tine rake
Use a leaf rake, not an ordinary rake, as this will rip lumps out of your grass rather than the moss/thatch.
This is the simplest way, although it involves quite a bit of physical effort to do the whole area. It would be best to aim to rake in one direction and then at a slightly different angle to get more material. Remember that your grass will need help to recover from this. So, sowing more seeds or feeding is a good idea.
Method 2: Using an automated scarifier
An automated scarifier will speed up this process and save you a lot of effort if you have a larger area! You can hire or buy one if you have a large area to cover. This method will remove a lot more material and be useful if you want to overseed afterwards. This may result in seeing soil patches where the moss has been removed - but that is what you need to overseed, so don’t panic!
This is best done in September as an autumn renovation or in April as a spring renovation.
Watering
How often should I water my new lawn / overseeded lawn?
You should water your new seeds deeply and daily for six weeks after sowing. If there is prolonged rainfall, you can avoid doing this. Failure to water, especially in periods of drought, can result in poor germination and / or establishment.
How often should I water my established lawn?
Once the grass is fully established or if you’ve already got an existing lawn, regular watering isn’t always necessary, especially with our UK weather. During prolonged periods of hot weather and/or drought conditions - you should re-adopt a watering routine. Click the button below to learn more about watering in hot/drought weather conditions.
How much water should I give my lawn?
The aim of watering is to keep your soil moist and not saturated so that your seeds have adequate access to the water they need to boost their growth. This can mean providing 1 1/2 inches of watering to your seedbed. If the water pools on the surface immediately after watering, do not be concerned. However, if it is still visible hours later then you may have over watered. If your soil drinks up the water extremely quickly (especially in periods of drought) you may need to water more. You can avoid watering when there is prolonged rainfall.
Repair
How do I prevent burn patches from dog urine on my lawn?
Yellow / burnt / dry patches can appear on your lawn when your dog urinates. This is because dog urine, particularly females, is very high in nitrogen. This high nitrogen content burns your lawn (turning it yellow and dry) in the same way that a fertiliser would - if it is not watered in. The first thing you can do to minimise the effects of the urine is to water the areas where your dog has urinated. Alternatives to this are:
● Cordon off an area for your dog to use to urinate / or train them to go in a certain spot
● Try products such as dog rocks in their water, to help neutralise the nitrogen in their urine - please consult a vet before purchasing.
How do I repair dog urine patches on my lawn?
If the patches are very green:
● Use a quick release fertiliser such as our QUICK RELEASE: Spring / Summer on the rest of the lawn (avoiding the already very green patches) to achieve one uniform colour on the lawn
● Apply at a rate of 70g per m2, and ensure to water the fertiliser in until it is dissolved
● Keep pets off the lawn during application and until the granules are dissolved
If the patches are yellow / brown:
●Firstly mow your lawn as you won't be able to while the new grass is establishing
●Scarify the area to remove as much of the damaged grass as possible, aiming for bare soil
●Rake the patch so that the soil is fine, loose and level. If it is not level to the rest of the lawn, fill in with top soil and rake to level
●Use our QUICK RELEASE: Pre-Seed to accelerate growth, apply at a rate of 70g per m2 and ensure to water the fertiliser in until it is dissolved
● Keep pets off the lawn during application and until the granules are dissolved
● Once the granules are dissolved, overseed with our FAMILY: Kids and Pets mix for fastest results sowing at a rate of 35g per m2
● Keep the patches moist by watering daily for the first 6 weeks after sowing. Avoid if there is prolonged rainfall.
●You can mow the patches alongside the rest of the lawn when the blades are hitting 5-7cm and have been established for at least 6 weeks
How do I repair patchy / thinning grass?
Before taking any steps, it's always good to find out what may be causing your patchy or thinning grass. This could be down to poor quality grass seed, pests, lack of nutrients or general wear and tear. If you believe it is due to general wear and tear, here's what you can do to resolve it:
Overseed thinning / patchy grass
● Mow your lawn before repairing the patches, as you won't be able to while the new seedlings establish.
● Rake away any clippings, stones or debris from the patchy section and loosen the soil
● Use a quick release fertiliser to speed up the growth of the new grass, applying at a rate of 70g per m2 and watering in until dissolved
● Once dissolved, overseed the area at a rate of 35g per m2
● Water the area daily for the first six weeks after sowing - if there is prolonged rainfall, you can avoid doing this
Fertilise to thicken thinning grass:
● Use a quick release fertiliser to thicken your existing grass and green it up, applying at a rate of 70g per m2 and watering in until dissolved
Pests
How do I get rid of leatherjackets?
There is no chemical pesticide to eradicate leatherjackets at present. Nematodes are microscopic bacterial worms that get rid of leatherjackets by infiltrating their outer casing and subsequently killing them. There are a wide variety of nematodes on the market, but it is important to make sure you have the right nematodes for the pest you are experiencing. For leatherjackets, the correct nematodes are Steinernema feltiae. Products such as Nemasys can be applied to the infected area or all across the lawn and must be watered in to activate the nematodes. Always follow the instructions on these products.
How do I repair leatherjacket damage?
Mow your lawn before repairing your patches, as you won’t be able to while the grass in the patches establishes.
Following this, the best course of action to take is to first remove the dead and yellowed grass from the damaged area so all that you are left with is bare soil. You can do this by scarifying, and through this process you will also loosen up the top layer of soil.
Add top soil to this area if the patch is not level with the rest of the lawn. Rake the soil to be level with the lawn, sow your new seed at 50g per m2 and firm down by foot.
What should I do about worms in my lawn?
Earthworms do more good than harm, so there are no existing pesticides that can be used on them. If there were, we also wouldn’t recommend these. These critters are often intrinsic to your lawn's growth system by improving drainage and recycling your soil's nutrients throughout the lawn. If you do find that you are regularly seeing worm casts on your lawn, here’s what you can do to lessen this:
Prevention
Remove clippings from your lawn after mowing – clippings are organic matter that, once broken down, return to the soil and make it even more fertile. Earthworms love fertile soil, so they won’t move on to the next lawn if you keep providing them with the best conditions possible.
Cure
Where worm casts have formed, simply brush them away (when they are dried out, they will make a mess if brushed when wet). Then, apply a product containing sulphur– this increases the acidity of the soil without harming the worms; worms aren’t big fans of acidic soil, so this will act as a future deterrent. The RHS recommends a product called Cast Clear. We would not recommend applying this product and changing the pH of your soil unless you know what you are doing or you have the help of a professional. You can get your soil pH professionally tested if it is of a concern.
What can I do about chafer grubs in my lawn?
Most lawn pests can be avoided when a lawn is regularly maintained – this means regular feeding, mowing, aeration, weed and moss removal as well as watering. Chafer grubs don’t want to be disturbed either, so if you’re regularly out and about on your lawn – they’ll gravitate away from these cramped conditions. In order to eradicate chafer grubs, there is a specific nematode species that can be used to combat chafer grubs – these are called Heterorhabitis bacteriophora, so be sure to look out for this name when purchasing the product. This introduces a natural predator to the chafer grubs and will lessen their population in your lawn.
How can I manage ants in my lawn?
Out of all the insects you think you may come across in your lawn, for most UK homeowners, ants will be quite far down the list. However, they do exist and there are over 30 species that can be found in Britain.
Here's how you should approach an ants nest in your lawn:
1. Tolerate ants’ nests where possible.
2. Brush away the mounds as they appear on a dry day to be level with your lawn and to lessen their appearance, avoid doing this on a wet day or it will smear the soil across your lawn.
3. If you have concerns that the ant species may be harmful, contact an ant removal specialist.
4. If removal is necessary, aim to use a non-pesticide control treatment such as nematodes.
Weeds, Disease, Moss & Fungi
How do I cure Red Thread in my lawn?
Red Thread is a fungal disease that typically occurs when weather is warm and wet. Lawns that aren’t regularly fertilised lack nitrogen, and this lack of nitrogen encourages the Red Thread fungus to spread from one blade of grass to many. Feed your lawn a nitrogen rich fertiliser to cure your red thread problem and to prevent it. We recommend our QUICK RELEASE: Spring / Summer – once watered in, this granular feed will set to work on your lawn making it green once again, and red thread free.
How can I get rid of moss?
New Lawn (under 6 months old)
Avoid using a moss killer product on a new lawn that is less than 6 months old, and instead scarify the area to loosen up moss and remove it. You should aim to reseed these areas once the moss is removed to ensure a dense sward that leaves little room for moss to move in.
Established Lawn (6 months + old)
Use our Feed, Weed and Moss Killer on the area as soon as possible to stop the spores from spreading and affecting a larger area. It works over the course of two weeks to eradicate weeds and moss - where it is particularly prevalent patches will appear and these areas will require reseeding. It will also feed your lawn and make any existing grass very green and lush. It is a granular fertiliser and needs to be watered in after application.
How do I get rid of weed grasses in my lawn?
The four most common weed grasses you will come across in any UK lawn are Poa Annua (also known as Annual Meadow Grass), Couch Grass, Yorkshire Fog and Rough Stalked Meadow Grass. Here's what steps you should take to get rid of them:
Step 1
If your weed grasses appear in clumps, you should use a blade to cut vertically at the roots. Remove the clumps, prepare the soil from scratch and replace with seed.
Step 2
In almost all cases step one will work for home owners. However, if the digging out and reseeding method fails and the weed grasses spread, then this leaves the option of a chemical approach. Like with lots of weeds, a glyphosate solution (Roundup) can be applied to the area to kill off weed grasses, bare in mind this will also kill off your grass - so only choose this method if you are willing to start your lawn from scratch again.
How should I treat Fusarium Patch in my lawn?
Fusarium Patch, sometimes called snow mould, is a common fungal disease that can occur in autumn or early spring after long lying snow has melted. The first sign that you may have trouble is a small patch of yellowing grass which increases in size to about 1ft across. Multiple patches may form and merge together affecting a large area. Curing this disease can be quite difficult so the following steps should be taken to prevent infection:
1. Avoid walking on the lawn if there is heavy frost or snow on it
2. Spike the turf regularly (aerate your lawn)
2. Don’t apply a nitrogen rich fertiliser in late autumn and winter
How can I cure Damping Off in my lawn?
Damping off can be caused by various soil-borne fungi, including Pythium, Phytophthora, Rhizoctonia and Fusarium, which cause seedlings to collapse and decay or ‘damp off’.
There are two forms of damping off: pre-emergence, where seedlings fail to emerge and post-emergence, where seedlings collapse and are often submerged in a white fungal growth.
This disease can spread rapidly, so it is best to treat the area as soon as possible. Unfortunately, there is no cure for seedlings should they become infected, so try to avoid sowing seeds too closely together, as this can increase the risk of damping off.
Scarification and aeration will also help prevent the fungi from gathering at the roots of grass and plants.
What can I do about mushrooms in my lawn?
Most mushrooms can be pulled out as soon as they can be seen without the threat of reappearance.
Fairy rings refer to the fungal infection that causes circles of dead grass and/or toadstools to appear on your lawn.
The most damaging fairy rings are called Marasmius oreades, which live in the roots of turf and produce toadstools, mainly in late summer and autumn.
Most fungi linked with this problem show no symptoms and are only noticeable if toadstools appear.
Due to the nature of this group of fungi, the best way to deal with them is to spike the lawn and water regularly.
This breaks up the water-repellent properties of the colony and leaves it vulnerable to moisture. Feeding with a fertiliser will also strengthen the grass and reduce the threat of infection.
How can I control weeds in my lawn?
New Lawn (Under 6 months old)
Do not use a Feed, Weed and Moss Killer type product on a new lawn. Most weeds that appear in a newly seeded lawn can be mown out over time. If your weeds do not mow out, you can use a spot treatment weedkiller in these areas. Always read the instructions before use.
Established Lawn (6 months + old)
Apply our Feed, Weed and Moss Killer to the whole lawn at a rate of 32g per m2. It works over the course of two weeks to eradicate weeds and moss - where it is particularly prevalent patches will appear and these areas will require reseeding. It will also feed your lawn and make any existing grass very green and lush. It is a granular fertiliser and needs to be watered in after application.
How can I prevent moss?
Good drainage, the right fertiliser and the correct seed mix will go a long way in reducing the chance of moss becoming a problem in your lawn.
Applying fertiliserin autumn and spring will strengthen your lawn all year round and, in particular, fend off moss throughout the colder, wetter months.
Drainage can be difficult to control; the main practice you should maintain is aerating the ground. This allows water and oxygen to travel freely and reduces compaction, which means fewer waterlogged areas and fewer areas with a moss-friendly climate.
If your soil is particularly sandy or clay-based, you may need to use grass varieties that suit this environment. Read more on how to aerate your lawn here.
About Our Seed
Is your seed bird resistant?
Our seed is 100% natural and is not coated, so is therefore not 'bird resistant'. Seeds that often claim to be bird resistant are instead coated in an aqueous gel that causes them to grow faster, and therefore germinate before birds are able to eat them. We believe natural, premium and non-coated seed performs best long-term and other methods can be used to deter birds such as:
● Using a visual deterrent with a reflective surface, such as cds or tape
● Introducing a noise deterrent such as windchimes
● Putting a protective covering over the seed while it germinates e.g. a tarpaulin or netted cover
● Providing an alternative food source
How long does your seed keep for?
Our grass seed will keep for up to a year if stored in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight.
How do I know your grass seed will grow?
Our grass seed is rigorously tested to ensure it provides successful germination and high levels of seed purity. We believe in our products and so do our customers, which is reflected in our 5-star Feefo review rating. However, we do understand that sometimes you need a little extra reassurance, which is why we created our Grass Seed Growth Guarantee.
When you purchase one of our grass seed mixtures, we will guarantee the growth of your new lawn under our terms and conditions. This is our declaration, or our way of saying to you, that we know our grass seed will germinate and grow as expected. This also means that should this not occur, we will send you a replacement of your original order or refund you for your product.
Is your seed dog pee resistant?
Grass seed that is dog pee resistant is hard to come by, as it doesn't exist! All grass species will succumb to the high nitrogen content in dog urine if not diluted with water.
Yellow / burnt / dry patches appear on your lawn when your dog urinates. The nitrogen in the urine burns the grass, and no grass will withstand this.
However, if you water the area where your dog has urinated, the nitrogen will not burn your lawn and will instead act as a fertiliser, making your grass very green.
Likewise, if there is rainfall during this time, it will have the same effect. If you've missed this step and have burnt patches in your lawn, you should repair them with a hardwearing, fast-growing seed - such as our FAMILY: Kids and Pets mix.
Will your shade mixes also grow in the sun?
Yes, our shade mixes contain grass species that are tolerant of different levels of shade - this means that they can tolerate shade as well as being able to grow in full sunlight.
Can I blend two of your mixes together?
Yes, you can blend two of our mixes together. For example, you may require your lawn to be hardwearing for kids and pets, but the lawn also has some shade. You can sow our FAMILY: Kids and Pets across the whole lawn, and then use one of our shaded mixes in the shaded area of your lawn.
